Midway: Heirloom Offers Elevated Kentucky Cuisine
I don’t know of better atmosphere for a lunch in Kentucky than eating outside in downtown Midway on a comfortable day. My friend Dave and I were able to enjoy just that with the blessing of the recent tolerable summer weather.
Over the past decade since its opening, Mark Wombles’ Heirloom has brought a continuing stream of diners to the historic railway town. The menu items typically are old favorites, but prepared in an elevated, thoughtful way and plated with care all served in the farm to table tradition. (Wombles recently opened the Lexington restaurant Distilled at Gratz Park in the old Jonathan’s location.)
Dave ordered the chicken livers with ricotta ravioli, lemon, garlic, basil, and crème fraiche. With some clever distraction techniques, I was able to sneak a bite off of his plate. As someone who has made it one of my life’s goals to avoid chicken livers in the past, I can safely say that Heirloom’s version will make a convert of you. The livers are certainly on my list for the next visit.
The Mary Burger was tempting to me, but I couldn’t resist the buttermilk brined fried chicken with fork-mashed Yukon potatoes, sage brown sauce, and arugula. The presentation was such that you weren’t initially sure that there was fried chicken under there. But the flavors of arugula, chicken, sauce, and potatoes all blended beautifully to the bite. The crust on the chicken was just right, and the “side” items–actually above and below items–allowed the chicken to be the star. In the Commonwealth where we value our fried chicken, Heirloom is well armed to meet scrutinous palates.
A light but delicious bowl of Heirloom’s in-house ice cream ended the meal, which was served attentively and graciously. Certainly, if you have not tried Heirloom, you won’t regret making the drive to Midway (does one really ever regret driving to Midway?).
I walked off my meal with a stroll down the street to Crittenden’s Clothing, one of the many shops along the historic railroad row. Midway really is a bit of a wonder. One would have to think there is nowhere in Kentucky, perhaps the South, with more quality dining per capita than Midway. Heirloom is a key part of that culinary scene, and the Bluegrass ought to be thankful for them.
125 East Main Street
Lunch: Tuesday – Saturday 11 AM – 2 PM
Dinner: Tuesday – Thursday 5:30 PM – 9 PM
Friday & Saturday 5:30 PM – 9:30 PM